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  1. #1
    itunu is offline Senior Member 100+ crafts club
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    Default Making Safe and Stable Lotions, Creams, Moisturisers, Body Butters....

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    Iíve been shocked to see unsafe/unstable recipes on the net which can cause skin/eye infections and will not pass a lab challenge/safety test and are unstable. I thought it might be helpful to put together a list of common misconceptions/reasons why lotions, creams, moisturisers go wrong so we can all make professional, safe and stable lotions/creams/moisturisers:-
    (a) do heat and hold your separate water and oil phases at 70c/160f for 20 mins. Most emulsifiers form micelles. As these micelles decrease in size the stability of the lotion increases. So your oil phase and your water phase will be more fluid/lower viscosity at higher temperatures. This fluidity does two things to help emulsification. First, it makes it easier to break the oil phase into very small droplets. Second, it makes it easier for the emulsifier to migrate to the oil-water interface, which is where it needs to be for a stable emulsion. The 20 min heat and hold will also reduce microbial levels by killing some of the non-endospore-forming bacteria.
    (b) anything containing water (including hydrosols, aloe vera gel and scrubs) needs a preservative - see below for more info
    (c) GSE and Vitamin E are NOT preservatives, they are anti-oxidants (they will extend v slightly the life of oils) but will NOT protect against bacteria, fungus and mould. Do double check your preservative is broad spectrum by checking it against this list - http://makingskincare.com/preservatives/ (Also see: http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.ca...d-extract.html and http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.co...servative.html)
    (d) use a stick blender not whisk/fork to emulsify - http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.co...ons-about.html
    (e) use 3 separate phases when making your lotion: water and oil and cool down so your lotion emulsifies properly - http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.co...that-then.html
    (f) use a stable emulsifier and the correct amount of it (beeswax and cetyl alcohol are NOT emulsifers - http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.ca...nd-friday.html and http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.ca...mulsifier.html). Emulsifying waxes vary from supplier to supplier. Some are more reliable than others. In the UK Gracefruitís emulsifying wax NF is reliable and as is a type of emulsifying wax sold in the US called polawax NF. There are others but the two Iíve mentioned are good for beginners.
    (g) use distilled water (in the UK itís not easy to find cheaply so use purified/deionized water instead). Do NOT use tap or mineral water which contain chemicals which will shorten your lotion's shelf life - http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.co...er-in-our.html
    (h) recipes should use weight measurements which are far more accurate eg grams, not volume measurements such as ml or drops - http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.co...w-to-read.html
    For a step by step tutorial on how to make a professional lotion incl recipes for different skin types - www.makingskincare.com. Do check out swiftcraftymonkey's blog - it contains a lot of very valuable information.

  2. #2
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    Default

    Excellent help, thanks!

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