View Full Version : Paper "lifting"

09-10-2011, 03:49 PM
Hi all,
Hope someone can shed a bit of light on a problem I am having ........
I have just started my first attempt at a collage but havnt got very far with it. I put my first (background) sheet - an old musical score sheet onto a piece of hardboard using PVA glue. I made sure the sheet was properly "soaked" before applying to the hardboard and made sure it was completely flattened and nicely stuck down. I thought the hardboard might warp so I also did the same on the reverse. Waited overnight for it to dry and then applied a white paint wash over it to dull it down. It started to "bubble up" within minutes and now fully dry still looks like a relief map of the Himalayers. I am obviously doing something wrong, but what ?.
Thanks, Philip

the card shark
11-10-2011, 06:15 PM
I can't really help with this but whenever I've wanted to stick a sheet of paper onto a sheet of card I've used a spray glue like Spray Mount.

12-10-2011, 01:01 AM
First I would suggest NOT soaking it. What does that do - makes the paper stretch and spread out...then as it dries, it draws back up Put down a thinnish layer of say, Mod Podge, let ti dry for a few secopnds, and apply the paper, smoothing it from the center and pressing down all edges and corners. Be careful about pushing on teh paper as you smooth it - I guess it's more like pressing it here and there than smoothing, which implies rubbing your fingers along the paper in lengths....

So press, press, press. Then set it aside and let it dry thoroughly and completely.

THEN apple the top coat of Mod Podge which can be fairly thickish...let thoroughly dry before adding a second top coat.

Let's think about - with it being too liquidy, are we sealing in air?

Are we stretching the paper when smoothing it so we make it have to draw back up, leaving lifted edges?

By sealing both sides, are we sealing in air and leaving no breathing room? If you were sealing porch or deck. by all means yes, seal both sides...not both at teh same time, though....sealing both sides of a porch will keep it from warping.

SO you MIGHT want to try mod podging the back of the wood after the entire pic is finished and as dried out as possible.

Does any of this make sense? You might try a small experiment with it, and see if you get any buckling.

12-10-2011, 08:58 AM
I was going to suggest Mod Podge too. With paper you have to be careful not to make it too wet and do thin layers over rather than one thick one. This will allow it to fully dry out before moving on to the next one. Also make sure that the layer used to stick the paper to the surface is even and fully covers the paper so that there are no 'air holes' trapped. If you find bubbles, you can make a hole in them and often flatten them down with more MP once the air has been released.

Spray Mount (permanent version) or similar is a good alternative for actually sticking the paper to the surface as it doesn't have as much moisture in it but again make sure that it covers the whole area (especially the edges) and protect your furniture/floor with paper before spraying - otherwise you will end up with a sticky mess as overspray is impossible not to do! You should then seal the whole surface with Mod Podge once the recommended drying time for the glue has elapsed.

12-10-2011, 09:03 AM
Always use a thin layer of PVA on the paper as it is prone to making card warp and wrinkle anyway. I would prefer spray mount for larger jobs, and use plenty of old newspapers to protect the floor!!